Red Rock Fever.
That’s the condition many people catch after their first glimpse of the stunning crimson sandstone formations of Sedona, Ariz.
Less than a two-hour drive from Phoenix or the Grand Canyon, Sedona has long attracted visitors seeking to immerse themselves in nature or find spiritual awakening from its vortexes, or healing energy spots.
But it’s not just yogis and New Age followers who are attracted to the town. With more than 300 trails, world-class resorts and restaurants, wineries and top-notch golf courses, Sedona also appeals to hikers, mountain bikers, golfers, wine aficionados and foodies.
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“The allure of the red rocks is what draws people here,” says David Key, president and chief executive officer of the Sedona Chamber of Commerce. “There’s something for everyone: trails, hotels, spas, high-end luxury, family-friendly, pet-friendly, holistic health, a wide variety of retail and the best art galleries in the state.”
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Home to around 10,000 permanent residents, the city attracts some 3 million visitors annually. What that means is that traffic is often an issue, with long lines of cars backed up at its roundabouts and no parking at its most popular attractions such as Cathedral Rock — one of the most photographed sights in Arizona — and the Chapel of the Holy Cross, a Roman Catholic church built into a red rock butte.
To combat the conga line, the city recently instituted a free shuttle system for tourists attempting to access the Cathedral Rock trailhead and other popular spots such as Dry Creek Vista from Thursdays through Sundays.
The shuttle also makes a stop at Posse Grounds Park, where an impressive community outdoor pool — eight lanes, 25 yards — is available to all for $3 or less. The park also boasts a public skate park, a dog park, bike skills and an outdoor performance venue.
One not-to-miss spot is Red Rock Crossing. Depending upon the depth of the Verde River — yes, Sedona is a high desert but has a river that runs through it and an aquifer beneath it so there’s always plenty of water — visitors can literally step from one side of the river to the other on a series of rocks, hence the name.
Red Rock Crossing can be accessed through a state park on the west side of town for a small fee or for free from the end of Verde Valley School Road in the Village of Oak Creek, home to other scenic hiking trails including Bell Rock and Courthouse Loop. At these trailheads, a Red Rock Pass is required, which costs $5 a day or $15 a week. The pass is needed anywhere there are restroom facilities. Otherwise, parking is free. A National Parks Pass also works at most of the fee lots.
Speaking of rocks and water, another attraction to check out is Slide Rock State Park. While some of the local teenagers jump off cliffs into the creek — a cringeworthy sight — it’s a lot safer to pay the fee to enjoy this gem 7 miles up the Oak Creek Canyon from the numerous gift shops and eateries in Uptown Sedona. The park, which was originally a homestead apple orchard, is named for its natural water slide where visitors can literally be swept downstream between slick rocks. Don’t worry — it’s safe, but cold even in the middle of the summer.
As an alternative to the popular Slide Rock, Key says visitors could try the lesser-known Grasshopper Point, a day use area on the Oak Creek that is perfect for swimming and even cliff-jumping for the brave.
About 3 miles farther up the canyon is the West Fork trailhead. For literary buffs, Zane Grey’s famous western novel, “The Call of the Canyon,” was set in the West Fork area. About a quarter-mile from the parking area are the remains of Mayhew Lodge, a hunting and fishing lodge built in the early 1900s by one of the photographers who worked on the silent film adaptation of the novel in 1923.
Several of Sedona’s roads are still dirt, probably intentional to accommodate the popular off-road Jeep tours. The major tour companies offer a range of options, some of which include a view of the White Line mountain bike trail. This precarious strip of quartz in the sandstone on Chicken Point can’t really be characterized as a trail and is considered one of the most dangerous routes in the world.
Venturing off-road to check out the White Line or some of the other less visited scenic views is not advised in a regular rental car, or even a standard SUV. A high-clearance vehicle is essential to navigate the rocks and ravines of historic roads such as Schnebly Hill Road or Broken Arrow Trail. (Fun fact: Schnebly Hill was named after Sedona Schnebly, the pioneer after whom the town is named. Her grave is in the Cook’s Cedar Glade Cemetery off 89A near the airport.)
Those properly equipped to venture down these dirt roads are rewarded with some special sights, such as the natural arches of Devil’s Bridge or Vultee Arch off Dry Creek Road.
Other outdoor options include hot air balloon rides, paddling a kayak down the Verde River or visiting one of the ancient sandstone cliff dwellings and checking out the petroglyphs at Palatki, Honanki or Crane Heritage sites.
And it’s not just North Carolina and Florida that can boast about their golf courses. Sedona has three public courses in the Village of Oak Creek: Sedona Golf Resort — where the view from its 10th hole is touted as the most photographed par-three in Arizona; Oakcreek Country Club, and Canyon Mesa Country Club, a charming executive nine-hole course. Tucked away in West Sedona is the Tom Weiskopf-designed Seven Canyons course, which is private but available to those staying at the nearby Enchantment Resort.
The Enchantment, itself tucked into a vortex site in the Boynton Canyon, is arguably the top choice in accommodations in Sedona for the well-heeled. Originally a tennis ranch, the resort sits on 80 acres and offers luxury casitas, the world-class Mii Amo spa, several pools, a fitness center, outdoor activities and Southwest-inspired dining.
“It really makes you feel like you’re out in the wilderness,” Key said.
A new addition to the hotel scene is Ambiente. Independently owned by sisters and Sedona natives Jennifer May and Colleen Tebrake, the adult-only property features 40 cube-shaped guest pods elevated above ground on steel frames built into the landscape with sweeping views of Sedona’s red rock formations. Cars are not allowed on the property, but guests, who pay upward of $1,000 a night, can get around the property on golf carts to access the pool, restaurant and spa.
“It’s a sustainably focused property that makes you feel immersed in nature,” Key says.
Key also points to the Wilde Resort on Route 89A as a more affordable option. It offers a grove garden, firepits, a pool under Italian cypress trees, and open spots for stargazing.
Once the sun goes down — and the temperature drops like a stone — it’s time to hit one of Sedona’s numerous restaurants. The choices are endless, from tacos and pizza to fine dining. Perhaps the city’s best-known chef is Lisa Dahl, who dominates the city with her six restaurants that range from Pisa Lisa with its artisanal pizzas and Butterfly Burger to Cucina Rustica and Dahl & DiLuca Italian cuisine. But her most acclaimed spot is Mariposa, a Latin-inspired grill on Route 89A with panoramic red rock views.
Getting a reservation at Mariposa is a job in and of itself since the restaurant books up months in advance. One alternative is to stop by for lunch or a drink and some appetizers — ideally at sunset, but the views are spectacular any time.
Other top-notch options include chef Jeff Smedstad’s gourmet Mexican restaurant, Elote Café, on Jordan Road in Uptown or Molé Mexican Kitchen or Javelina Cantina on Route 179.
Barbecue lovers can check out the Colt Grill in the Village of Oak Creek, a popular spot that also has locations in nearby Cottonwood, Prescott and Prescott Valley, Ariz.
And Key says a local dining secret is Gerardo’s Pizzeria on Route 89A, a family-run spot serving wood-fired pizzas and Italian specialties. “It’s tucked away and it’s part of the slow food movement,” Key says. “They let their dough ferment for 72 hours and use all local ingredients.”
For anyone open to venturing outside Sedona, there are some memorable day trips, from the Grand Canyon to Jerome, an old copper mining town built into a mountain. The surrounding area is also home to a variety of wineries, all small production facilities. They include Page Springs Vineyard & Cellars in the town the late senator and former presidential candidate John McCain called home, as well as Oak Creek Vineyards, Javelina Leap or D.A. Ranch Estate.
Key’s favorite is Cove Mesa tasting room in nearly Cornville, but he says the Verde Valley Wine Trail lists some 25 vineyards in the area, so everyone can find the one that best suits their palate.